Bodyshell

It is possible to attain amazing finishes with the use of cutting compounds, professional sandpaper systems etc., and on many occasions I have extolled the virtues of multiple sanding and polishing operations, but this time I decided to go for the simplest, least time consuming method of getting a decent gloss finish on the Porsche's bodyshell. This involved the use of the excellent Mr Hobby aerosol products, chiefly Mr Surfacer 1200 and Mr while still fluid.

A second application built up a solid layer of colour on the model, and after another ten minute drying period, another 'wet' coat provided a continuous film of colour, wet enough to allow to the tiny droplets of paint to merge, but not so drenched

ABOVE: The wheels are chromed, but this was oversprayed with Alclad II Stainless Steel for a more scale effect.

carnuaba wax which is quite hard to find, and can be substituted with a standard car polish. Considering I used no cutting compounds on the paint and only a simple polish with a wax based material, I was very impressed with the result.

The most complicated part of this model is the masking required to achieve a neat result with the black bodywork trim, extensive on the 1988 Porsche. Although it's fiddly, it is essential that this is carried out with precision as any ragged edges will be accentuated by the contrast with the gloss paintwork, and will look awful. I use Tamiya Masking Tape for most operations, and when it comes to the really tricky stuff, the ultra narrow Aizu Micron masking tape from Japan comes into its own. This amazing material is basically the same low-tack yellow tape as Tamiya's, but comes in widths from 0.4mm to 2.5mm in 8m rolls, and is extremely flexible. It can be purchased from Hobby Link Japan (www.hlj.com).

Do not try to mask off the whole car in one session, but tackle the masking in stages instead. The main reason for this is that when blanking off the bodyshell in paint that it would sag - Halfords aerosols are excellent in resisting sag, but of course any paint will eventually run if over-applied. All that was needed now was patience to let the paint harden! The only additional finishing was a rub over with 'The Treatment'

covers very evenly. Once the clears colours were on the indicator mouldings, the back face of each part was finished with a light layer of Alclad II Stainless Steel to create a reflective surface. The glazings, lights, wipers etc., were attached with five minute epoxy which won't create a chemical fog like CA glue, and will allow paint-to-paint bonds to be made with ease.

And that's it! Tamiya's first 1:24 Porsche kit since the Carrera GT (my next car project) uses structural parts from a kit eighteen years its senior, but don't let that put you off, the mouldings are as good today as they were when originally released, back in the original era of the yuppie! Now, where did I put my red braces and pastel green Miami Vice jacket...®

MODGLSPGC " tamiya I24 Porsche 9II Turbo 88

Materials Used:

Injection moulded grey, black, plated and clear styrene. Polycaps, steel axles, photo-etched badges and mirror faces, waterslide decals.

Paints Used:

Mr Surfacer 1200, Mr White Surfacer, Halfords VW Brilliant Orange, Matt Black. Alclad II Stainless Steel, Clear Orange, Clear Red. Hannants Flat Varnish.

Other Materials Used:

Humbrol Liquid Poly, Grip thin CA glue, Five Minute Epoxy resin, Daco decal setting solution.

4 Always ensure that you work in a well-ventilated room when using

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BELOW: Tamiya have captured the bulbous outline of the Turbo car to perfection, including the ultra wide rear track, huge tyres and 'ironing board' rear wing.

Mr Surfacer products are available in the UK, Scandinavia and Ireland from; www.ModelDesignConstruction.com

BELOW: Tamiya have captured the bulbous outline of the Turbo car to perfection, including the ultra wide rear track, huge tyres and 'ironing board' rear wing.

Mr Surfacer products are available in the UK, Scandinavia and Ireland from; www.ModelDesignConstruction.com

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